Anti-Canine Culture

Have you ever experienced the strange realization of loss - becoming conscious that you were without something and then subsequently missing something you did not miss until you realized you were without it and wondering how you could have never noticed before? (I hope you muddled through that.)

I had a most peculiar version of that recently - I saw a dog in my neighborhood in Kigali. In Memphis or Knoxville, this would be no extraordinary thing. Of course I would be a bit cautious with any stray or wild animal, but I am a passionate animal lover, particularly dogs.

When I saw this dog, it occurred to me - I have not seen a dog since I have been in Rwanda. Why? Why is this dog here now, out of the blue?

The first time it the dog was lying up against the gate to my house when I arrived from work on a moto. I was quite startled, not knowing how to assess the safety of the situation (plus I had not received my rabies vaccine - global shortage). But the dog appeared calm and sweet, left a fair distance between us, and left when shooed.

However, for the next week or so, she made continued appearances. Nearly every time I walked through the neighborhood, she would join me at some point, accompanying me at a safe distance. It is as if she could simply sense I am a dog person.

Curiously (and probably unfortunately), she does not seem to fear cars - only moving out of their way at the last instant. She was obviously previously cared for - I wonder why she suddenly appeared here and wish I could do something, but I know I cannot.

Throughout my encounters with her, I asked Tom about the curious lack of dogs in Kigali and Rwandan's apparent fear or disgust of them. He responded with an illuminating answer: during the genocide, dogs fed on the corpses. Following the genocide, Rwandans killed almost every dog - both to quell fears and ease memories.