A Look at Gloablization's Penetrating Influence: The West's Intervention - Past, Present, Future?

With a long bus drive ahead of us, we decided to abandon the reggae cd we had had on repeat for the entirety of the trip and listen to the local radio, and am I glad we did. Listening to Ghana Today, we heard so very interesting things....

First, we heard an announcement about President Obama's upcoming visit to Ghana in July and the excitement surrounding it. One can certainly tell that Ghanaians are ecstatic over Obama's election. When we have met people, they have spoken with us positively about American politics rather than condemning our system and philosophy. Also, on our regular driving route around Accra, we pass a Hotel Obama.

Next, we heard an interview with Charles Taylor's defense attorney. The attorney was a Jamaican who has spent most of his like in the UK. He was addressing not only the nature of Taylor's incarceration but also the characterization of his trial, by far the more interesting issue. He said that it found it ridiculous and offensive that Taylor should be tried in The Hague as opposed to in an African court. He declared that the trial had become a matter of politics instead of justice, which can often be said. He believed that Western states, particularly the US and UK, were playing far too great a role in Taylor's prosecution, urging that his removal to The Hague intentionally limits Africans' knowledge of the trial and concerns about related events. While I personally doubt Taylor's innocence, I did agree with or find interesting some of the attorney's arguments, such as this trial's being a new form of imperialism.

He and the interviewer debated the appropriateness of Western intervention in Africa, an age-old question. Is the West a rescuer or an unwanted, unneeded pest? Is continued intervention not simply slowing the process toward African unity and development? Can Africans not try a man (e.g. Charles Taylor) whose action most directly and greatly affected their own well-being? Do Africans resent or appreciate Western intervention in this high-profile, political case?

After a few hours of driving, we arrived at Elmina Castle in Cape Coast where the slave trade was previously conducted, first by the Portuguese followed by the Dutch and the British. While the castle's exact function shifted over time as it changed hands, the spirit of exploitation and domination remained constant.

I was moved during the tour of the castle due to the vividly descriptive and horrific narratives provided, such as the nature of women's confinement. While I was familiar with such information from my studies, standing among the history made it all the more real and meaningful. Additionally, I really enjoyed the beauty of the castle itself, but I had to remind myself of the atrocities committed within its gates. The castle and the surrounding town at the time of the trade represented a microcosm of imperialism, expanding inequalities through exploitation.

On a lighter note, the afternoon was a whirlwind of fun...
lunch at a restaurant with a crocodile pond; photo with a croc; consumed yet another traditional Ghanaian dish new to me...

drive to national park; short hike; canopy walk through/above the rainforest - most amazing thing!

The True Ghanaian Spirit

Note about Ghanaian construction (both commercial and residential) - With exorbitant interest rates, people rarely seek loans but instead save and build slowly. This method of construction is highly indicative of Ghanaian pride and work ethic; therefore, the value of one's home is all the greater.

Baptist International Church - Similarly, the sermon was delivered in both Twi and English. The translation process kind of reminds me of the Catholic church's mosaics, previously employed to teach the illiterate masses the values and lessons of the Scriptures. The subject of this sermon has remained relevant for ages: recruitment to the faith. Now Christianity and Islam, as the main actively converting religions, oppose each other as primary competitors in that realm - in Ghana and throughout the world. In this way (and others), the world is at war.

In noting the church bulletin, I was intrigued and impressed by the number of literacy and language classes offered. This church is truly trying to function as an international community religious center.

...Following some people-watching at the beach, we returned to the bus. I noticed that the parking lot appeared much more crowded than when we arrived. Indeed, we had been shut in. However, within a few minutes, several men had gathered (voluntarily - simply seeing our predicament) to move the bus clear of its angular issue. According to our Ghanaian drive and guide, this sort of demonstration is typical in Ghanaian culture, highlighting the importance of hospitality, teamwork, generosity, and warmth.

Cultural Monetary Priorities

May 16, 2009
While driving to Aburi, I saw several beautiful, elaborately decorated (at least on the exterior) churches, constructed with variously colored tiles and glasses and standing in stark contrast to their surroundings. Meanwhile the village in which the church was situated appeared poor - not necessarily relatively poor - but certainly not as comfortable as East Legon, the neighborhood near the University of Ghana. It struck me that such a concentration of resources had been poured into this church. As the religion lecturer said, religion is the center of life for Africans. This certainly supported that assertion.

Visit to Aburi Botanical Garden - I thoroughly enjoyed the garden - a public garden, where Ghanaians obviously also enjoy themselves - school field trip present, church service in progress, picnics underway, etc. I also learned a lot about the biological origin or many medicines, herbs and spices, etc., seeing firsthand the plants that produce them. Nature truly is a remarkable provider.

The church service there was conducted in both English and Twi. After asking Dr. Sall about this, I learned that it was to account for linguistic diversity, lack of education, and the fact that Christian religious texts are printed in English. A remnant of imperialism?

Wood-carving village - Shopping at the wood-carving village was such an eye-opening experience. I was so mentally prepared to bargain but did not expect great success. As soon as the venders saw our bus approach and begin to park, their eyes lit up (and their mouths metaphorically watered) at the prospect of a sale, particularly to American tourists incapable of bargaining. I was overwhelming by not only the number of shops but also the determination with which venders were trying to convince us to enter their shops. Once inside a shop, I tried to peruse with purpose, knowing I could not buy too much for financial and logistical reasons. When I found a few masks I particularly liked - simple yet striking - I asked the price and prepared to bargain (beginning with 1/3 of the asking price), but a set of two were only 12 cedis, approximately $6. I brought the price down some but thought that the price was already too low for an item so nice that required such an input of time and attention.

Innocence and Ignorance

May 15, 2009

...The Ghanaian people have lived up to their reputation of warmth. They appreciate our attempts to respects their customs, while they are still interested in our personal backgrounds. For example, today we ate lunch at a small restaurants on the University of Ghana, Legon, campus called The Basement. A few of us were eating with our hands, as Ghanaians do, and perceived that many of the clientele were staring at us. However, soon after that, one of the seemingly primary employees came to our table and said that she like that we were eating with our hands. She also was very receptive to me while I was ordering my food - using greeting and thanks in Twi. I have genuinely been trying to greet and thank people as much as possible, and today I noticed positive responses - warm conversation and smiles....

Everyone in our group seems so moved by the children we see, myself included. The kids are so cute and friendly, but is as if we think they alone are innocent and deserving of our assistance and "rescue." However, as we heard in the lectures, various generations have felt the repercussions of Western influence and domination. How can we - that is, all concerned with this problem - stop this cycle and rework the world system? DESTROY THE IMF/WB! That's perhaps a starting place.

Also, I have been somewhat surprised by and disappointed with some members' knowledge of issues pertaining to Africa, ranging from colonialism generally to the Rwandan genocide. For example, I was speaking with someone privately before dinner about my trip to Rwanda, and she asked me, "Isn't there a war going on there now?" I told her that there was not but rather that the genocide had occurred over ten years ago. Than she asked me what genocide was.

Need a quick guide to Ghana?

Culture
- importance of etiquette and hospitality - Madassi (thank you); Eta sane (How is it?/How are you?); use right hand for all greetings/gestures
- patrimonial and matrilineal (in most cases) society
- hierarchical society, particularly relating to age + importance of extended family networks (no word for cousin - refer to him/her as brother/sister)

Economy
- mineral-rich: light crude oil, bauxite, gold, diamonds + agriculture (primarily cocoa)
- liberalized economy hurts local industries (IMF/WB policies)
- imports too heavily --> currency depreciates
- though poor country, strong self-perception and attitude toward future --> wants greater integration politically and economically in Africa (AU) and world
- accelerated income gap has precipitated greater crime, thought crime still remains relatively low (few handguns)
- importance of the informal sector - large but counted and contributing?
- populating explosion - 4.5 in mid-1950s ; now 22 million with 3% growth rate --> affects the efficacy and resource distribution of all industries, particularly education





Politics
- most recent election was very close - peaceful shift in power
- Ghana has a history of being a political leader in Africa - Kwame Nkrumah (Pan-African Socialist leading the movement for African independence & Ghana's first president)
- 1951 - first elections with universal suffrage (before US)
- '57 - independence declared
- '66 - military coup supported by CIA ousted Nkrumah
- '72-'79 - brief return to democratic rule
- '81-'00 - military coup topples military government. Leader maintained through election.
- Current ruling party is a descendant of Nkrumah's party.



Leaders historically are not ideologically-oriented but may shifted policies based upon convenience. Government is now taking into account past successes and failures in policy rather than considering the previous governments evil.
Ghana has a history of pan-African affairs and leadership in African, peace-keeping and peace-making throughout Africa, and promoting development.
[I have more detailed information about the nature of and conditions surrounding the military interventions and political culture, if anyone would like that information. If interested, just ask. If you have particular questions, you can of course research yourself, or I can try to answer.]

... One could see the effects of neoliberal policies through the great economic inequality - with the booming downtown/airport area bustling with growth and the nearby neighborhoods plagued by poverty as well as individuals' responses to such through the growth of the informal sector, ranging from street venders to prositutes. In light of this, I must note Ghanaian cultural pride and desire for improvement: greater global economic and political integration. I wish the majority of Americans shared this attitude as opposed to adopting a sense of entitlement to anything and everything.

Religion
For an African, religion = center of life. There is a necessary connection between the physical and spiritual worlds. Rituals, perceived cosmic order, rites of passage, etc.
When the professor/pastor was asked if these syncritistic (blending traditional and modern religious beliefs and practices) methods were in conflict with the modern world, he responded, "Yes," to my surprise.

Have you ever stepped outside?

May 13, 2009 - Arrival in Ghana
...We received room assignments - intentionally pairing us inter-racially to, in theory, best allow for differing perspectives and backgrounds to exchange ideas in an intimate environment and spur debate on the themes of our trip. I have been paired with Britney in Room 5. She, like her friends on the trip, seems apprehensive about, and even afraid of, many things here in Ghana and relating to travel in general - bugs, food, weather - heat/humidity, etc. They seem resistant to step outside of their American comfort zones. I have been put off by their attitudes and yet amused by their antics - e.g. screeching when they find a lizard in their bathroom. Fortunately, tonight at discussion, Britney declared that, despite her concerns, she was going to try to approach everything with a positive attitude and an open mind. Oh thank goodness.

Blog Attempt #2

So I previously began a blog on a different site, thinking my decision a good one. I was severely mistaken. Not only could I not load photos (for some unknown reason), but after writing a few posts, I soon began experiencing difficulties simply creating posts or referencing past ones - Firefox would completely shutdown. So, I am now starting afresh. Hopefully, I will be able to salvage those past posts and repost them here.

Quick update - this is a summer in Africa. I began in Ghana, where I went on a faculty-led mini-term with a small group from my university in order to study the role on Ghanaian women in national development. The program was about three weeks and packed with fun and informative excursions. Next, I alone headed to Kigali, Rwanda, to work with Urwego Opportunity Bank, a partner bank of Opportunity International - a microfinance institution. Here I have been since late May and will remain until the end of July.

I hope to use this blog while here as a way to update those concerned and interested on my activities and experiences and later simply as a way to disclose some of my thoughts. I hope you enjoy following me on my journey.