Constantly in amazement of God's creation and basking in the glory of His imagination

Today was (per usual lately) dominated by driving. Once we neared our destination, the scenery changed, becoming very mountainous, green rainforest. Eventually, we arrived at the entrance to the waterfall park. The hike to the falls - the tallest waterfall in West Africa - took about 45 minutes. Admittedly, I was a straggler, as I stopped frequently to take pictures along the way - tall, ageless trees; a huge swarm of carpenter ants; a peaceful meander stream; the mountains in the distance. I was just in awe of the forest, the mere size (and therefore age) of the trees and of the forest.

Once we arrived at the falls, there was quite a crowd of locals enjoying the cool water and spray. A few of us, myself included, ventured in, even directly beneath the falls (as this precise environment permitted). However, some of the locals proved to be an annoyance - very grabby and persistently so. I was forced to become rude, even physical.

Interestingly, a number of bats inhabit the cliffs of the falls.

To what extent are we agents of change?

This morning on our way out of Kumasi we stopped at the school in which Judy served as an instructor while in the Peace Corp in the 60s. It was fascinating walking with her through her old haunts and seeing the school as it has changed (or hasn't). Such a trend is common in Ghana, with pockets of progress or aspects but largely a preservation of the status quo. The nature and areas of these pockets of change and of preservation may serve to either promote or inhibit further development for the state overall. Only greater time will tell.

Our agenda for the day consisted of visiting three rural villages, each of which specialized in some sort of craft: bead-making, kente, adinkra (symbols printed on woven cloth). I enjoyed the explanations we received about each as well as our opportunity to buy goods in the villages; however, the bargaining became strenuous. At first, I tried to remain polite but eventually became frank and rude, ignoring and/or trying to escape from the venders. I truly mean escape. They would surround the bus, tap on the windows, reach their arms into any window opened, follow us into every doorway until stopped by someone, and grab our arms to get our attention or stop our retreat.

Throughout Ghana, we have heard much about their strong work ethic and intolerance for idleness; therefore, begging is severely frowned upon. In these villages, people would ask us for anything - money, food, transport to the US, school supplies, personal contact information, etc. I felt both sad and frustrated. I figured that these people truly were in need, but I felt helpless. For example, in the bead-making village, several children followed us around all morning, and more accumulated as we prepared to leave. All were so excited and happy that we were there. They asked us for pens and pencils, but Dr. Sall had previously collected all we brought to distribute at a school we would later visit to perform a community service project. I searched my backpack hurriedly and found two pens. When I opened the bus door, I saw a crowd of children had gathered, and immediately a struggle - almost violent - erupted over the two pens. It made me so upset to see such seemingly happy children behave this way because they do not have the means to study - and I was the catalyst for this incident. I suppose the only positive aspect of this story is the indication of their perceived value of education.

The return drive to Accra was long and uncomfortable, largely due to the bad condition of the roads with tons of potholes and speed bumps. While Kwaze is an excellent driver, he can only do so much to avoid these or lessen their blows. These road conditions - plus horrendous traffic - are not uncommon here. It truly makes you appreciate the US road system, although a more easily taxed American population does help in that regard.

GOLD = POWER

As has become somewhat of a custom (pleasantly), we listened to the morning news/interviews on the radio in the bus. This morning, with such a long drive from Accra to Kumasi, I was admittedly in and out of sleep, but I was intrigued by what I managed to hear: discussion of the Ghanaian war on drugs. In particular, I found it interesting that the interveiwed person declared marijuana essentially a culturally accepted and permissibly used drug while stating other drugs are rarely used. Instead, this war on drugs is simply being waged to appease Western states, powerful trading and political allies. For example, Ghana's demonstration of its support for this war has garnered favor with the US, as seen through Obama's decision to visit Ghana in July.

I find it interesting that for so many years (and in some ways today) developing states made deliberate efforts to act according to their own interests, without any regard for the more powerful (or even to their detriment). However, now recognizing the connectedness of global politics and economics, developing states have acknowledged their need to blend strateges somehow.

Upon arriving in Kumasi, we visited the Asante hene's (king's) former palace - now a museum. The tour, while informative, raised several questions for me.

We have been informed that the Asantes largely dominate the political arena in Ghana. Any explanation? Is that attributable to wealth, education, some other variable?

Gold seems to be an important cultural symbol of strength and power to the Asantes. Are Asantes today still amassing and hoarding gold, or do they now sell their gold holdings for profit? [Hernando de Soto]

I was surprised at the appearance of the former palace - largely unimposing, unimpressive, not ornate. As Asante culture is so associated with gold, I would have expected gold to play a large role in the palace's decoration.

Next, we went to the largest market in West Africa. I was initially very excited, energized by all the activity there with people constantly and feverishly bustingly about; however, upon entering it, I was overwhelmed by the crowds, the smells, and the overall size of the place. The market was so congested that I feared I would get lost, swept away in the masses, despite Dr. Salls's strategy to keep our group together and just wander in for a few minutes. On account of my nervousness, my perceptions of the people were also different than some others' in our group. People seemed to be mocking us, laughing at our being there and scorning us as snobs.

Gender equality - the key to cultural and, by extension, political "progress"

Parliament - Unfortunately, the assembly was not in session for us to see, but we were able to tour the building and sit in the chamber. Ghanaian Parliament is a hybrid system of the American and British legislative systems. I was struck by some of the progressive measures being pursued to improve its degree of representativeness yet also its desire not to rush too quickly into progress. For example, Parliament has implemented several methods of promoting public outreach and awareness of the political system:

- welcoming public feedback

- sending government information as well as members of Parliament to rural districts to keep them informed and participating

- instituting early government education and Parliament chamber visits

Additionally, the arrangement of members within the chamber intrigued me, with one' position indicating much about both your politics and your longevity in Parliament. Nkrumah's daughter is a newcomer, with her position reflecting such and her relatively moderate political stance.

When we consulted the press secretary about female representation in Parliament, she informed us that the Speaker of Parliament (the third highest political position in the state) is a woman but that women constitute a low percentage of parliamentary membership (about 19 out of 230 members). I asked her if Ghana had considered implementing quotas or a proportional representation system, as in other states like Rwanda, and she responded that Ghana needed to take baby steps in politics before it could run. Also, she lik most Ghanaians favored female participation based on merits rather than quotas and thought that with time more Ghanaians would be receptive to female political leadership as well. I do not know which system is more democratic - one like Rwanda that ensures the voices of minority interests are heard or one like Ghana which promotes competition - but I am glad to see that Ghana is ocnsidering these reforms in order to make itself a more democratic state.

Art Centre = market - Next, we went to a local market, which extended further than I had time or energy to meander. The haggling wa exciting but exhausting. I am worried that my gender and race label me an easy target to overcharge, but I am learning to be more firm while still polite and likable.

Outside of the market, a member of our group saw a man selling/wearing a t-shirt she just had to have - "Can you smell what Obama's cookin'?" I wish I were clear on the details of the story because as it unfolded it somewhat irked me. She bought the very shirt off his back. It bothered me because it indicated to me an attitude of absolute entitlement,as if her desire to have the shirt superceded his right to keep it. I wish I knew the details.

Later, we went to the mall to run errands and eat lunch. I was amused by the general Americanization of it all, particularly the menus in the food court (while slightly altered from tradition in their preparation). Case in point: I ate Chinese food; Will had a cheeseburger;Judy had chicken tenders. Is something wrong with this picture?

Development from the Bottom Up

Role of women in national development (Lecture)

- long-held belief that men make development happen and women remain in the domestic sphere

- in agriculture in African states - 11% of work done only by men; 34% only by women; 55% by both - role differs often by type of implement used and type of crop grown (cash crop industries dominated by men)

- cocoa - women in cocoa production were fewer, came to production later, and had smaller farms; instead, cocoa transportation and sale dominated by women --> TRADE = quintessential female activity

- Ghanaian female employment higher than male since 1980s

- large-scale manufacturing companies have had little success in establishing themselves in Ghana, as women already have employment opportunities and as the informal sector is not considered an undesirable employment sector (flexibility, hierarchy)

- culture - matrilineal influence - women may want tohave children to extend lineage

[more information about population, education, government participation - ask if interested]

...I was very excited to visit the mausoleum of Kwame Nkrumah, arguable Ghana's most celebrated figure. The shrine was uniquely constructed with of course symbolic meaning. I was intrigued by the presence of a statue of Nkrumah that had been destroyed during the 1966 coup. This showed a shift in perception of Nkrumah from a hero to a villain to a hero yet again. Now his ideas that had been rejected are being reconsidered and celebrated.

The accompanying museum was fascinating, particularly the photographs of Nkrumah's life and political career. There were several photos of him with prominent leftist leaders ranging from JFK to Castro to Mao. Also, there was a photo of him dancing with Queen Elizabeth II, particularly fascinating considering Nkrumah's passion for pan-African independence.

Ultimately, I think Nkrumah was a great leader, guiding many African leaders in the foundation of their states and establishing Ghanaian cultural and political precedents. He did so with somewhat of an iron fist, but the programs he established truly furthered the welfare of Ghanaians, such as in education. I appreciate his current veneration.

A Look at Gloablization's Penetrating Influence: The West's Intervention - Past, Present, Future?

With a long bus drive ahead of us, we decided to abandon the reggae cd we had had on repeat for the entirety of the trip and listen to the local radio, and am I glad we did. Listening to Ghana Today, we heard so very interesting things....

First, we heard an announcement about President Obama's upcoming visit to Ghana in July and the excitement surrounding it. One can certainly tell that Ghanaians are ecstatic over Obama's election. When we have met people, they have spoken with us positively about American politics rather than condemning our system and philosophy. Also, on our regular driving route around Accra, we pass a Hotel Obama.

Next, we heard an interview with Charles Taylor's defense attorney. The attorney was a Jamaican who has spent most of his like in the UK. He was addressing not only the nature of Taylor's incarceration but also the characterization of his trial, by far the more interesting issue. He said that it found it ridiculous and offensive that Taylor should be tried in The Hague as opposed to in an African court. He declared that the trial had become a matter of politics instead of justice, which can often be said. He believed that Western states, particularly the US and UK, were playing far too great a role in Taylor's prosecution, urging that his removal to The Hague intentionally limits Africans' knowledge of the trial and concerns about related events. While I personally doubt Taylor's innocence, I did agree with or find interesting some of the attorney's arguments, such as this trial's being a new form of imperialism.

He and the interviewer debated the appropriateness of Western intervention in Africa, an age-old question. Is the West a rescuer or an unwanted, unneeded pest? Is continued intervention not simply slowing the process toward African unity and development? Can Africans not try a man (e.g. Charles Taylor) whose action most directly and greatly affected their own well-being? Do Africans resent or appreciate Western intervention in this high-profile, political case?

After a few hours of driving, we arrived at Elmina Castle in Cape Coast where the slave trade was previously conducted, first by the Portuguese followed by the Dutch and the British. While the castle's exact function shifted over time as it changed hands, the spirit of exploitation and domination remained constant.

I was moved during the tour of the castle due to the vividly descriptive and horrific narratives provided, such as the nature of women's confinement. While I was familiar with such information from my studies, standing among the history made it all the more real and meaningful. Additionally, I really enjoyed the beauty of the castle itself, but I had to remind myself of the atrocities committed within its gates. The castle and the surrounding town at the time of the trade represented a microcosm of imperialism, expanding inequalities through exploitation.

On a lighter note, the afternoon was a whirlwind of fun...
lunch at a restaurant with a crocodile pond; photo with a croc; consumed yet another traditional Ghanaian dish new to me...

drive to national park; short hike; canopy walk through/above the rainforest - most amazing thing!

The True Ghanaian Spirit

Note about Ghanaian construction (both commercial and residential) - With exorbitant interest rates, people rarely seek loans but instead save and build slowly. This method of construction is highly indicative of Ghanaian pride and work ethic; therefore, the value of one's home is all the greater.

Baptist International Church - Similarly, the sermon was delivered in both Twi and English. The translation process kind of reminds me of the Catholic church's mosaics, previously employed to teach the illiterate masses the values and lessons of the Scriptures. The subject of this sermon has remained relevant for ages: recruitment to the faith. Now Christianity and Islam, as the main actively converting religions, oppose each other as primary competitors in that realm - in Ghana and throughout the world. In this way (and others), the world is at war.

In noting the church bulletin, I was intrigued and impressed by the number of literacy and language classes offered. This church is truly trying to function as an international community religious center.

...Following some people-watching at the beach, we returned to the bus. I noticed that the parking lot appeared much more crowded than when we arrived. Indeed, we had been shut in. However, within a few minutes, several men had gathered (voluntarily - simply seeing our predicament) to move the bus clear of its angular issue. According to our Ghanaian drive and guide, this sort of demonstration is typical in Ghanaian culture, highlighting the importance of hospitality, teamwork, generosity, and warmth.